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Barrel, cabin or cube
Barrel saunas are round, built from long staves held together with steel bands. The rounded shape means less air to heat for the bench space, and they are often the most affordable outdoor style. The trade-off is headroom and bench width. Full detail in our barrel sauna guide.
Cabin saunas look like a small shed or cottage, often with a changing room or porch. They give standing room, longer benches and room for two bench levels, at a higher price and with more assembly.
Cube and modern designs use flat panels with large glass fronts. They suit design-led gardens and small yards. More glass means more heat loss, which can mean a larger heater.
Wood choices
- Western red cedar: naturally resistant to rot and insects, aromatic, usually the premium option.
- Nordic spruce or pine: the traditional Finnish choice, lighter in color and typically less expensive.
- Thermally modified wood (Thermowood): softwood heat-treated to improve stability and resistance to rot and insects, usually darker.
Whatever the wood, the exterior benefits from a suitable outdoor finish. The interior is normally left untreated or given a sauna-specific product.
What it sits on
Plan the foundation before delivery day:
- Choose a level, well-drained spot with access for the delivery and for maintenance on all sides.
- Build a base that keeps the wood off soil: concrete pad, gravel and pavers, or a deck rated for the weight.
- Check the manufacturer’s foundation spec. Barrel saunas rest on cradles; cabins need even support under the floor.
Getting power to it
An electric heater outdoors usually means a dedicated 240V circuit run from your main panel, often trenched underground in conduit. Distance from the house drives cost, so ask a licensed electrician to quote before you pick the spot. You may also want a separate circuit for lighting.
A wood-fired heater avoids the circuit but needs a chimney, heat shielding, safe clearances and somewhere dry to store wood.
Permits and neighbours
Building rules vary widely. Before ordering, check:
- whether a permit is needed for the structure, the electrical work, or both;
- setback distances from property lines and other buildings;
- rules on wood-burning appliances and smoke;
- HOA rules, if you have one.
Planning checklist
- Spot chosen with drainage, access and privacy in mind
- Foundation built to the manufacturer’s spec
- Electrician’s quote for the circuit, or a plan for chimney and clearances
- Permit questions answered
- Delivery access (crates can be large and heavy)
- A clear plan for who assembles it and how long it takes
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a permit for an outdoor sauna?
Often, at least for the electrical work, and sometimes for the structure itself depending on size, setbacks and local rules. Wood-burning heaters may also fall under fire codes. Check with your local building department before ordering.
What do you put an outdoor sauna on?
A level, well-drained base that keeps the wood off the ground: a concrete pad, compacted gravel with pavers, or a sturdy deck. Follow the manufacturer's foundation guidance, because barrel saunas sit on cradles while cabins need full support under the floor.
Can you use an outdoor sauna in winter?
Yes, and many people prefer it then. Heat-up takes longer in cold weather, so a properly sized heater matters. Keep snow off the roof if the manufacturer recommends it, and keep the path to the door clear.
Is a wood-fired outdoor sauna better than electric?
Neither is better outright. Wood-fired heaters need no electrical circuit and give a classic feel, but take tending, a chimney and safe clearances. Electric heaters are controllable and convenient but need a correctly sized circuit run from the house.